Sunday, June 17, 2012

Week Summary: June 11 - 17

Mon-AM: 1:34, 3500' ~ Quandary Peak (14,265')
First time I've ever done this peak in dry (non-winter) conditions.  57:30 from the trailhead. Lots of people on this route for a weekday.

Tue-AM: 2:32, 4500' ~ Mt. Elbert (14,433')
Pretty standard outing up and down the NE ridge from Halfmoon Creek.

Wed-AM: 2:16, 4000' ~ South & North Arapaho Peaks (13,397' & 13,502')
Started from the 4th of July TH above Nederland, straight north up an avy chute to the ridge, and then out and back on the Class 3 traverse between the two peaks. Perfect morning weatherwise. Some fun, moderate exposure out on the traverse, 15min between peaks, in both directions.
PM: 0:51, 1500' ~ 2nd Flatiron
Quick evening ascent of the flattie w/ Joe. Downclimbed it, too, which was good practice.

Thu-AM: 1:16, 3000' ~ Green Mt.
Up 3rd access and down 1st Flatiron w/ Joe.  Missed the mountain, good to get back on it. Crazy how lush everything is down here on the Front Range.
PM: 1:00, 1500' ~ 2nd Flatiron
Evening ascent of the flattie w/ Marissa. Dropped my camera maybe 50ft off the deck and it exploded at the bottom. Big bummer. I like taking pictures.

Fri-AM: 5:10, 5000' ~ Longs Peak (14,259')
Up Kieners and down the North Face (Cables). Got out with Buzz and Peter for some product testing during an introduction to the uber-classic Kieners Route on the East face of Longs. Snow conditions in the Lambs Slide couloir were perfect, and any snow on Broadway was easy to step around. Psyched to find a rope already fixed for the rappel down the Cables, but was sorta bummed to carry a 60m rope all day and never use it.

Sat-AM: 2:38, 5000' ~ Longs Peak (14,259')
Up Kieners and down the Cables w/ Joe. Hiked all the way up the mountain, but found a nice groove on the way down below the Cables and ran back to the trailhead.  Did a fair bit of stopping for pics and video. Incredible day out w/ clouds and mist high on the mountain.

Sun-AM: 2:28, 5000' ~ Longs Peak (14,259')
Up Kieners and down Cables. Went back yet again today to go for a quick time on this line, no stopping. After yesterday, I thought I could hit something decent. Unfortunately, today was extremely windy and my climbing legs were flat, no energy all-around.  I still had what I think is a solid time of 2:28:31 for the round-trip with a 1:41:37 ascent and a 46:54 descent.  I can definitely take that uphill under 1:40 with fresh legs and on the way down I bumped into Andy Anderson (absolute roundtrip record holder on Longs), so had to chat with him for a couple of minutes before continuing down. If I hadn't done that, I think I would've been close to his 44min descent from his record run last summer.  But, there was a fixed rope on the Cables slabs that he didn't have during the record, so the time probably evens out.  All in all, a great day out, but a bit low-energy. Hit one gel before the snow traverse, didn't carry any water.

For those interested, full splits:
Goblin sign - 12:30
Battle Mt sign - 26:45
Chasm turn-off - 37:50
Chasm Lake (east end) - 47:30
Bottom of Lambs Slide ridge - 59:40
Start of snow traverse - 1:12
Entry of Broadway - 1:17
Base of Notch Couloir - 1:23:10
Diamond Step - 1:38:15
Summit boulder - 1:41:37 (left summit at 1:42:00)

Top of Cables (fixed rope) - 1:48
Chasm View - 1:50:40
Crossing of standard trail (below Granite Pass) - 2:05:40
Crossing of Battle Mt CG trail - 2:14:50
Goblin sign - 2:22:25
Pavement - 2:28:31

Just like Saturday, I used every shortcut I know of below treeline, and instead of crampons and ice axe I scrambled the ridge just to the left of Lambs Slide before traversing the snow over to Broadway.  Credit goes to Buzz Burrell for this bit of beta; it's nice not carrying all that gear/metal.

Hours: 19h45
Vert: 33,000'

A solid week, but I made the decision this week to not run Hardrock.  I'm not willing to push my training to include 3+ hr runs and continually reaggravate my shin.  At this point, I'm planning on the Speedgoat 50K as my return to competition at the end of July.  Hopefully, by then, the shin will be strong enough to endure the long training runs needed to race 100mi at the end of the summer (Leadville).

South (left) and North Arapaho Peaks on Wednesday.
North Arapaho summit.
The LA Freeway: A term coined by Buzz Burrell to describe a journey from Longs Peak (high point, left-center horizon) to Arapaho Peak via the Continental Divide. The mother-of-all-traverses on the Front Range if one sticks to the ridge.
Topping out on Kieners on Longs Peak Friday morning. Photo: Buzz Burrell.
Traversing Lambs Slide high on Longs Peak, Saturday morning. Photo: Joe Grant.
No place quite like Broadway. Photo: Joe Grant.
Starting up the Crux Cracks at the base of the Notch Couloir. Photo: Joe Grant.
Photo: Joe Grant.
Heading up towards the Diamond Step. Photo: Joe Grant.
Ledges above the Diamond Step. Photo: Joe Grant.
Negotiating the wet Cables slabs on the North face with the help of a fixed rope. Photo: Joe Grant.


Freebird said...

Awesome week! Bummer about Hardrock but prob a wise choice.

Nicholas Branden Lee said...

Am I reading the parentheses right and you're running Leadville?

Anton said...

Nicholas - It's likely, if the shin allows.

David said...

Were you sporting the L.S. X-country ? Psyched to hear about tentative Leadville plans.

Hoppy said...

Hope your shins back to 100% soon Anton . Awesome 14er pics dude , Broadways an eye opener .Looking forward to your possible return to Leadville . alohas

Ian Scott said...

So happy you're back at it but I'm bummed you aren't doing Hardrock. At least you're being cautious. Keep getting after it.

coach dion said...

Looks like a bit of real trail running...

Jannicke said...

Awesome terrain.
Glad to hear that your training goes well.

Alex Gillespie said...

wow broadways. not sure if my (lack)if head for heights) could do this!

Lo-Fi Poetry said...

I love the pictures. Beautiful scenery.

Wyatt Hornsby said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
pasi.koskinen said...

Just asking silly ? question : In the future You wanna be mountaineer (alpinist) or ultrarunner ?

Anton said...

Pasi - I don't think there needs to be a distinction between the two (alpinist and "ultrarunner"). I think they're essentially the same thing, and complement each other. I just like getting out in the mountains, challenging myself, and integrating with the terrain. Sometimes that's running, sometimes it's hiking, sometimes it's climbing; the best is an outing that combines all three.

Summits said...

Looks awesome Tony,
I got a quick question as well, are you using an atc or repel device down the cables, or are you just an arm or dulfersitz method?
Also if you haven't heard of the Mt Wilson to El Diente traverse in the Lizard Head Region you should should definitely check it out.

I'l be out there climbing September 1st.
Alex Hauger

monica said...

BROADWAY!!! that is some madness. so dang inspiring. bummer about Hard Rock. i can't go now either. gotta be in Boston. but hopefully i'll see ya tearin' it up at Leadville. until then, keep on keepin' on!!!

Rain said...

Amazing pictures this week! Nice climbing, I am sure your choice not to run the coming up race, will just get you stronger and more prepared for your next race.
As always thanks for sharing your adventures.

pasi.koskinen said...

Thank you very much answering my question.
I share very much your philosophy.
Just asking because some silly people always try to categorise these and then comes just targent oriented just for racing and just not for fun !
Keep going and sharing!

Sergio said...

Are you coming back to europe for cavalls del vent? If so, just for that race or any other events? Will other americans also come (like TV and Zegama)?
Stay healthy.

M said...

Simply amazing, Anton!
btw your tan seems to correlate with your fitness. you might be mistaken for a Kenyan by the time the summer is over! :)

Anton said...

Alex - No ATC or rap device; just hand-over-hand down the rope. It's really a quite moderate slab, but just tough when there's a stream of melt running down it like right now.

Sergio - Yep, Cavalls is the plan. Joe Grant and Dakota Jones are currently also planning on racing CdV. Right now, I'm hoping to run Grand Raid Reunion as well, though that's not really Europe.

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basecamptrekking said...

Amazing pictures this week! Nice climbing, I am sure your choice not to run the coming up race, will just get you stronger and more prepared for your next race.

basecamptrekking said...

So happy you're back at it but I'm bummed you aren't doing Hardrock. At least you're being cautious.

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