Sunday, January 27, 2013

Jan 21 - 27

01-21-2013
Mon-AM: 2:06, 4500' ~ Flatiron Trifecta+Green Mt.
Ended up being pretty tired, so after hitting the first three Flatirons I just slogged to the top of Green instead of scrambling the last two as well. Tired legs. Appt at Peak Performance Acupuncture in the afternoon.

01-22-2013
Tue-AM: 5:47, 5000' ~ Longs Peak (14,255')
Up Kieners down Cables with Joe. Really good outing. Got to Chasm Lake in 1:14 and the entry to Broadway at 1:48 or so. Waited for Joe at the ledge before the first crux even though we both felt really comfortable today, like we could've soloed it.  Roped up and I led as we simul-climbed across Broadway and up the Crux Cracks before packing the rope and marching up to the Diamond Step and the summit. Really nice kicked-in steps in the upper snowfield, made things easy. Got to the summit at 4:12 where we didn't spend too much time before rappeling the North Face and then running back down to the trailhead via the Jim Grove trail.  Lots of wind between treeline and Chasm on the way up and then on the Boulderfield on the way down; otherwise, a perfect day.

01-23-2013
Wed-AM: 2:05, 4500' ~ Odd Flatiron Trifecta+Green Mt.
Starting from Chautauqua, scrambled the 1st, 3rd, and 5th Flatirons before heading up to the summit of Green.  This is a really nice two hour outing because it links up the best Flatirons with the most sustained and quality climbing, and the off-trail connections between each of these flatirons are really logical. Tired legs after yesterday's long effort.
PM: Climbing, w/ Joe. 4th Elephant Buttress in Boulder Canyon, Northwest Face.

01-24-2013
Thu-AM: 2:01, 4500' ~ Odd Flatiron Trifecta+Green Mt.
Same exact run/scramble as yesterday, except that I had a lot more energy. Would've done the full Quinfecta, but wanted to be a little rested for another run up Longs tomorrow. Acupuncture afterwards.
PM: Climbing, w/ Joe. Dome in Boulder Canyon. East of the Sun and East Slab.  By the time we climbed the East Slab the sun was down and the moon was high.

01-25-2013
Fri-AM: 4:56, 5000' ~ Longs Peak (14,255')
Up Kieners, down Cables. With Joe. Not too windy, but kind of a chilly day with misty clouds blowing across the upper reaches of the mountain. Simul-climbed Broadway and the Crux Cracks again, but we're getting it quite dialed in, so it goes really quickly. The snow on upper Kieners was, unfortunately, a bit drifted so that our kicked steps from Tuesday were pretty much gone, which made this section much harder work. 3:37 to the summit and a 1:19 descent.

01-26-2013
Sat-AM: 2:04, 4500' ~ Odd Flatiron Trifecta+Green Mt.
Nice warm morning, but I was moving slowly on the talus with tired legs and an ankle I rolled on yesterday's descent. Felt good on the scrambles, though.

01-27-2013
Sun-AM: 2:01, 3000' ~ 3rd Flatiron+Green Mt.
Easy run from my doorstep. Thought the rock was going to be wet after the rain (!) last night, but it was drying quickly in the rising sun and I didn't have any issues, even without sticky rubber. Descended Ranger to Gregory.  Good to test the hip with some more sustained running, but it is still tight/twingy.

Hours: 21hr
Vert: 31,000'

Similar to when I did the Kieners Route on Longs Peak for the first time this past summer, it's been hard to stay away from it this past week after notching my first winter ascent.  It's just such a nice line on the mountain that is technical and exposed enough to keep things interesting but not too scary or difficult.  So, three trips up Longs in eight days.  In between I've been getting in as much scrambling as possible, trying to maximize this warm January weather and take things a little easier on my hip flexor.  In the coming weeks I'll probably branch out to a couple other 14ers (but Longs is so close and so much fun!), and hopefully start incorporating more sustained running into the routine as the hip allows.  Gotta start preparing for the flat profile of the Tarawera 100K at some point with longer continuous runs, but I need to be mindful of whether my legs will hold up to that.

Summit of Longs Peak. Photo: Joe Grant (and that's proper film, not Instagram :)

Joe (the tiny speck) at the bottom of Lambs Slide.
Joe on the entry to Broadway. Upper Lambs Slide behind.
Broadway and the Lower East Face. Photo: Joe Grant.
Joe just above the crux of the Broadway traverse.
Joe on upper Kieners after the Crux Cracks.
Steep snow.
North Face of Longs (Cables route is just to the right of the Diamond).

24 comments:

Barry Bliss said...

Broadway and the Lower East Face sure looks different than Broadway and the Lower East Side.
Thanks for posting/sharing.

Court5km said...

Anton, nice week you had. What do you wear/use for traction for the running parts of your outings?

Anton said...

Court5km - I used Kahtoola Microspikes for most running traction needs on snow/ice, and Kahtoola KTS Steel Crampons for the more technical steep/deep ice and snow on the high peaks.

foxintheno said...

Hi Anton

Sweet pics! the sky & mountians look crazy cool.
I am Jules, I live in NZ. Was wondering if I would be able to help out or crew for you at Tarawera 100k in march? :) my detz are juliana.vankampen@gmail.com
cool thank you :)


J

Unknown said...

Hey Anton. I have what seems like peroneal tendonitis. How did you fix it when you had this injury?
Good luck with your running
Greg

Brad Williams said...

Hi Tony,

I hope the hip is doing well. Have you run in the MO80s? How do they compare to the 110s? Thanks in advance for any info shared.

Take care,
Brad

Stay Vertical said...

Hip Flexor Recipe:

1. Warrior 1 yoga pose 20 seconds- 5 times throughout the day.
2. Find the knot deep in your quad and have your GF dig her elbow into into it at full body weight and hold for 1 minute until it's gone. Do this every other day. I have had a few bouts with this issue and it has always been very deep anterior quad knots that cause the pulling in the flexor.
3. Big strip of KT/Rock Tape from just above patella to lower abs, passing over the psoas. Horizontal strips over the pain points (in your hip and the quad knot down lower).

Good luck.

Alexandre said...

Hi tony,

Great week in Colorado!
Could you tell me which tights and layering do you wear for winter running?

Best,

Alex

Anton said...

Greg - I've never really had any serious peroneal tendonitis. My long-suffering shin injury was periostitis, which is an inflammation of the sheath (periosteum) around the tibia. Mine was on the medial side, where the posterior tibialis attaches to the bone.

Brad - I don't have any experience with the MO80s.

SV - Many thanks for the suggestions. This nag is turning into a real pain. Acupuncture does seem to really help a lot, though.

Alexandre - It all totally depends on the wind/temperature and everyone's tolerance for cold is different, so it's hard for me to give any meaningful suggestions. I have different weights of NB tights, depending on the temp, and on the upper body I just use standard layering techniques...a tech short-sleeve T base-layer, a varying number of insulating layers over that, all usually topped with a hooded wind jacket. You just have to experiment.

Anonymous said...

Anton,

One thought that I might give to you is to look in other possible issues...not sure what your symptoms are but if they involve a chronic "groin pain" and lower abdominal pain that seems to never fully go away. For example when you rest it goes away but as soon as you start your daily training again it comes right back.

If this is the case then you’re a prime candidate for what’s called a "sports hernia" totally different from a true hernia.

I attached a link...and I know of a great doc who specializes in sport hernias and works on the CO Rockies Pro Athletes. It’s normal for runners to get it and it’s fairly a new sports injury that's easily mis-treated as chronic groin pain or hip flexor issues. And only a specialized doctor knows what to look for when dealing with them.

Basically, it’s small tears of your lower ab's that attach to your pelvic bone.

Its relative easy issue to fix it does require surgery but your back on your feet within 3-4 weeks and for the most part there is no more flare ups.

I’m not saying this what you have, just trying to offer other options to look into as it sounds like your having chronic hip flexor/groin pain….. and that’s what sounded the alarm in my head.

You could also have what’s called….

Iliopsoas Tendinitis/Bursitis


http://rockymountainsurgical.com/default.htm

Unknown said...

What are you doing on Mardi gras this year Anton

Anonymous said...

One last thing...

Your new movie "In the High Country" is going to be awesome! I just saw it on IRunFar.com and I must admit it sparked new fires in my motivation tank.

Quick Questions:

1. When exactly when it will be release and where it will be sold ( I assume online via Ultimate Direction's Website?)

2.What is the song used in the beginning?

Can't wait man!

tb said...

UTMB!!??

Ian Scott said...

Dallas, the song is 'Seeding' by Tyler Keene.

http://logacrossthewasher.bandcamp.com/album/2010-61min

Court5km said...

Thanks Anton :)

Unknown said...

Hi from Spain, Anton!

I´ve been running about 2.500 miles on a 110 pair. They really worked and the most important thing is that I´ve been able to forget injuries for about one year.

The problems comes when I talk to New Balance to get another pair and they tell me that them aren´t able in Spain. BUT, I´ve seen a new MT10v2. My question is... Is basically a MT10 with another colour combination? Have you use them?

Wondering if we could see each other this year in some spanish mountain and run together ;) (Sorry about my poor english).

Thanks a lot and regards,

Pablo

Nenet Susa said...

Hi Anton, like me on facebook and you can check out a preview of your new movie. Ha ha
Nenet Susa Heart Rate Based Training
I loved the clip and can't wait to see it. I hope it tops unbreakable because that film rocks.
" I'm stabilizing now"

Anonymous said...


welcome to our shop,my shop website is hollister milano and Abercrombie and Fitch .

Unknown said...

Mountaineering is often called Alpinism, especially in European languages, which implies climbing high mountains with difficulty such as the Alpines. A mountaineer with such great skill is called Alpinist.
Customized T shirts

Anonymous said...

Hi to all I am new person to the blog.I want to share about the best photo sharing app through your blog.

buy followers on instagram

Unknown said...

ralph lauren outlet In Uk - newest style Polo in 2013 for mens and womens,and buy ralph

lauren other items with sale price also,free and fast shipping.

cheap nike air max,nike air max sale,nike air max 90,nike air max classic,nike air max 90

sale,nike air max 95,nike air max classic,nike air max 1,cheap nike air max trainers.

mbt shoes uk,mbt shoes clearance,mbt shoes reviews,best price mbt shoes,mbt shoes stockists,mbt

shoes back pain,cheap mbt shoes,mbt uk.

Abercrombie ,Abercrombie londra,abercrombie italia, Hollister, gamma di prodotti, quantità

, prezzo, velocità di rete, la facilità di acquisto, benvenuto al nostro sito web per acquistare il tuo abbigliamento preferito!

Achetez en ligne des meilleures ventes d ,70% de réduction vente:Polo ralph lauren femme,chemise ralph lauren femme, la livraison gratuite.

Alastair Alex said...

Quite Cool Job !! it's worth to go trough such information.!! Well i will also be back to get more information from here.!
Apple® - MacBook® Pro - 15.4" Display - 8GB Memory - 750GB Hard Drive

Unknown said...

Nice Blog
Visit for on-
Web Design & Development Company in London
Website Design London
Website Development London
seo services london
Mobile Apps Development london
IOS Apps Development London
Windows Apps Development London
Android Apps Development London

Iklan Baris said...

It's very interesting post
Iklan Baris Gratis